Brunate

Brunate crowns the hill that closes Como’s basin to the east, five hundred metres above the city yet only a funicular ride away. From its terraces the lake unrolls in both directions, and on the clearest days the view runs to Monte Rosa — and, locals will tell you, to the Madonnina on Milan’s cathedral.

Why visit

Few Italian towns offer so much spectacle for so little effort. The historic funicular, running since 1894, lifts you from the lakeshore past villas and gardens to a village of panoramic terraces, Art Nouveau villas and chestnut woods in under ten minutes. At the top, walks fan out along the ridge: a short panoramic trail leads to the Faro Voltiano, the lighthouse built for the centenary of Alessandro Volta’s death, whose beams still sweep the night sky; another path climbs to a mountain sanctuary with a story of wartime memory. Add clean air, simple restaurants and gardens, and Brunate makes the perfect half-day or full-day escape from Como — best of all in the golden hour before dusk.

Character and history

Brunate began as a scattered settlement of the mountain above Como; it flourished briefly as an independent commune in the late twelfth century before returning to Como’s rule by 1240, a dependence that shaped its later history as the city’s summer retreat. When the funicular opened in 1894, connecting the lakeshore to the ridge, the village transformed: Como’s professionals and artists built villas here, giving the lanes their Art Nouveau flourishes, and Alessandro Volta himself had earlier kept a house on the hill. The Bulgarian poet Pencho Slaveykov spent his last years and died here in 1912 — a reminder of the quiet international pull these views have always exercised. Today the year-round population counts under two thousand, swelling with summer visitors who rent the old villas and apartments. The parish honours Saint Andrew the Apostle, whose feast in late November is the town’s principal religious date, and the territory strings together the hamlets of Cao, Carescione, Laghetto, Nidrino, Piani di Brunate and San Maurizio.

What to see

The Volta Lighthouse is the landmark: a 29-metre octagonal tower on Monte Tre Croci in the San Maurizio district, designed by engineer Gabriele Giussani and inaugurated in 1927 as Como’s centenary tribute to Alessandro Volta. Its 143 spiral steps rise to twin balconies over Chiasso, Cernobbio and the western Alps — a climb rewarded, in the right conditions, with the silhouette of Milan’s cathedral to the south. After dark the lantern sweeps green, white and red in the colours of the flag. Check locally before climbing, as the interior has at times been closed for restoration even while the terrace stays open.

Down in the town, the Church of Sant’Andrea Apostolo on Piazza Santa Giulia serves as the parish and civic heart, dedicated to Brunate’s patron. Higher still, above the hamlet of San Maurizio, the Sanctuary of Santa Rita da Cascia tells an affecting story: begun in 1941 from a mountain priest’s idea, built with volunteer labour and donated stone, and dedicated to the Alpine soldiers who fell in war. Raised to a sanctuary in 1944, it keeps wooden statues from Val Gardena and a mountainside tranquillity worth the walk.

Between monuments, the real sight is the panorama — from the public gardens, the terraces along the ridge, and the roadside balustrades toward Piani di Brunate.

How to experience

Take the funicular up mid-afternoon, wander the village lanes, then follow the signed panoramic trail — about 1.2 kilometres through chestnut, birch and pine woods, passing small votive chapels — to the lighthouse for the wide view before sunset. Stay for dusk if you can: watching the lake lights come on from Brunate’s terraces, with Como spread below, is the town’s defining moment. Walkers can continue along the ridge toward stronger viewpoints or descend on foot to Como through the woods for a longer circuit. In summer, plan a slow lunch in the shade; in the cooler months, come for the crystalline air that makes the farthest peaks visible. Strong fog in Como often means bright sunshine up top — a local trick worth remembering.

Practical planning

Brunate sits directly above Como; the funicular leaves from a lakeside station near Piazza Cavour and climbs to the upper station on Piazza de Gasperi. A steep, narrow, winding road also serves the town, but driving is discouraged in season because parking is very limited. Comfortable shoes help on the stepped lanes and ridge paths, and layers are wise — the hilltop is noticeably cooler than the lakefront. Restaurants and cafés cluster near the upper station; shops are few. Funicular frequency and the lighthouse’s opening status change seasonally, so confirm details with the municipality (comune.brunate.co.it) or Como’s tourism offices before setting out.

Nearby places

Brunate’s hillside outlook puts much of the lake within reach: the city of Como, just below, is your starting point for the funicular, while across the water Cernobbio lines the shore with its villa gardens, and the mid-lake villages of Torno and Blevio thread the opposite bank. At the head of the lake, Bellagio makes the classic excursion, and the whole basin is best framed by Lake Como.